One of the main differences is the controllers technolgy vs the others. Our handle 30amps and puts out 13.5 volts. Here's our specs for the controller. Plus our new fitting make install a snap. And the nickel plated brass will last for ever. The controllers are getting a further beef up to handle even more amps for bigger pumps and we did a slight change to them. Moved some things around, all the boxes will be CNC cut from now on, fiber optic light tubes we also added.
General Operation:
On power up the unit will blink the yellow led indicating what BAR setting the unit is setup for.
2 blinks is 2 BAR
3 blinks is 3 BAR
Then the unit will read the dial settings and calculate the slope of the progressive control.
Map voltage is read and converted to a boost value
Pump duty cycle is calculated based on dial settings and slope
When boost PSI reaches the START setting the pump will come on with a 15% duty cycle
It will ramp up to 100% as boost approaches FULL setting.
The pump voltage percentage will increase with a 0.2 pound increase in boost.
This means the voltage will step up 5 times over an increase of 1 PSI making a very linear response curve
For ease of adjustment, each dial has 21 settings that are incremental
There is a setting for every hash mark and another setting inbetween each
Having the arrow close to a setting will provide the exact setting.
For example the 12 o'clock position on the START dial of a 2 BAR unit is a PSI setting of 7
It will also be a 7 if the arrow is 6 degrees to right (or left) of 12 o'clock
once it is beyond half way to the middle the setting will be 7.5PSI
This allows the user to easily set the unit to exact values without having to be fussy with the dial
For reference the Dial settings for each version are as follows:
If the FULL setting is set to a lower PSI than the START setting, the start setting will be ignored and the pump will switch on to 100% when PSI is above FULL setting and will switch off when it is below the FULL setting.
In order to prevent loading down the MAP sensor signal, the voltage input to the controller is left floating. This means that tapping into the stock MAP sensor that is connected to your cars computer will not effect the MAP voltage.
However, if the MAP input wire (green) is left disconnected, sampled voltage will be erratic and therefor pump output voltage will be erratic.
LEDs:
RED - power led - It will be illuminated anytime there is power applied to the pink wire and the black wire is grounded.
GREEN - This led will light up proportional to pump output voltage, it will turn on dim and brighten as the pump reaches 100%
YELLOW - This is the FULL/Diagnostic led
It will blink the BAR value that the unit is set for on startup. 2 for 2 BAR and 3 for 3 BAR.
It will come on solid in normal operation when the output voltage to pump is at 100%.
It will stay on until output drops below 95%
This prevents the light from fluttering if the boost is hovering around FULL.
It will blink a steady rate when the unit is faulted.
Fault:
The controller will go into fault mode if
- excessive current draw
- fault in the pump circuit
- controller overheat
- pump wired incorrectly
In fault mode, the controller will shut off the output to the pump and will flash the yellow (FULL/Diagnotic) led.
The controller must be powered down and the fault condition must no longer exist before the controller will resume normal operation.
Open circuit conditions are not monitored by this controller
This is because many alcohol/water injection pumps have a
pressure switch to modulate max pressure. During normal operation the switch will open and close. When the switch is open, no current will flow to the pump. Therefore, it can be normal for a zero current condition when the controller is telling the pump to run.
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