[BioRunner]

Hello all,

I'm going to be doing a water/alcohol injection setup on my turbo diesel 1KZ-TE. I will try to provide as much info as possible on how this effects my truck. I have a few questions, maybe I could get help with...

First is where I should mount my nozzle. I'm going to do dual nozzles and I'm wondering where to put my second nozzle. I was thinking of putting it shown here in this pic..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3135/...8c34b3f6_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3179/...96cf6172_b.jpg

Is it ok that the nozzle is before the throttle plate?

I'm also trying to figure out what kit to get... maybe a devils own admin can help me...

There is the 4 cylinder turbo diesel kit.... but I want dual nozzle setup and I notice that the stage one diesel setup comes with a dual nozzle setup and 3 nozzles... while the other only comes with 2 nozzles and no dual nozzle setup..

I guess it does not matter much... just get what I want right? Does the diesel stage one come with a check valve that can be put before the Y split??

I hope to get this setup up and running soon! I can't wait for the boost in performance...

Another question... WI is supposed to be comparable to an intercooler... when putting on an intercooler on a 1KZ-TE, people see an improvement of as much as 10 MPG and much more... will I see something like this with WI? The reasoning for this is of course that the intercooler cools the air and makes it denser so more can fit into the cylinder.. is the same with WI?

Thanks all!

[dvldoc]

Originally Posted by BioRunner Hello all, I'm going to be doing a water/alcohol injection setup on my turbo diesel 1KZ-TE. I will try to provide as much info as possible on how this effects my truck. I have a few questions, maybe I could get help with... First is where I should mount my nozzle. I'm going to do dual nozzles and I'm wondering where to put my second nozzle. I was thinking of putting it shown here in this pic.. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3135/...8c34b3f6_o.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3179/...96cf6172_b.jpg Is it ok that the nozzle is before the throttle plate? I'm also trying to figure out what kit to get... maybe a devils own admin can help me... There is the 4 cylinder turbo diesel kit.... but I want dual nozzle setup and I notice that the stage one diesel setup comes with a dual nozzle setup and 3 nozzles... while the other only comes with 2 nozzles and no dual nozzle setup.. I guess it does not matter much... just get what I want right? Does the diesel stage one come with a check valve that can be put before the Y split?? I hope to get this setup up and running soon! I can't wait for the boost in performance... Another question... WI is supposed to be comparable to an intercooler... when putting on an intercooler on a 1KZ-TE, people see an improvement of as much as 10 MPG and much more... will I see something like this with WI? The reasoning for this is of course that the intercooler cools the air and makes it denser so more can fit into the cylinder.. is the same with WI? Thanks all!

Good day, Yes you mount it before the throttle plate there is no issues with it there. Or you can go further back by the coupler right after the turbo.

Our other diesel kits are really for state side V8 diesel vehicles and yes they do come with a inline check valve. You would want the Stage 2 kit if you had electronics such as a MAP sensor on your vehicle, Of course our controller allows you to add this to your vehicle. Or you can go with the Stage 1 kit which is boost activated. You would want the 2-10psi because those vehicles do not boost very high.

I would go with a D02 nozzle at the intake and if your going dual nozzles then a D01 pre-turbo (night and day difference) Nice boost in power on these engines. If you want lower consumption you can just go with 2 DO1 nozzles which will still out cool any intercooler made for your vehicle. This would get you the extra power and economy as well as better performance. Or if your looking for that 20% increase in power than go with the D02 nozzle the intake. The pre-turbo nozzle is like running a larger more efficient turbo.

You will notice even after spirited driving your upper intake pipe will cold to the touch not cool but cold, (not a exaggeration)

These vehicles tend to be happy running around 15% to 20% alcohol for a good bump in power. You can run higher concentrations up to 50% but start out small plus since vehicles are so low in the HP department they tend to be in the boost all the time so consumption of fluid is a bit high compared to state side vehicles.

For those vehicles it's the best bang for the buck modification your going to get. One other thing always noticed is the vehicle feels quicker and performs better even with the system off after you have had a few tanks go through and remove all that carbon and soot from the inside of your motor.

Good luck on your choice.

[BioRunner]

Great! Thank you dvldoc, that will help a lot with my decision making...

But now you got me torn between getting the controller setup or the pressure switch setup....

What would be the real good reason for getting a controller over a pressure switch setup? I mean I would think that if there is boost (2-14 PSI) then I would want the system on, full pressure or not.

I know the controller can control the pump pressure at set intake PSI which allows you to adjust perfect setting for intake boost... and it allows you to waste less water/alcohol...

But with pressure switches... does it really matter all that much that the pump is at full pressure all the time? Does this hamper the gains you can get at lower boost? In my mind I figure that I would want the pump at full pressure all the time because of 2 nozzles and just to make sure there is always a good fine mist made by the nozzle because of the full pressure from the pump...


Just trying to justify the cost of getting the controller and if the cost would be worth it for an engine like mine.

Thanks all!

[tweak'e]

this is something i'm looking at the moment to.

problem with pressure switch if you run it 100% all the time you will pour in lots at low boost and not enough at high boost. so when cruising you will go through lots of water.
if you set it to come on at cruising boost then you can run into the problem of the injection turning on, get more power so foot comes off the throttle to maintain cruise which then drops you off the boost and injection turns off. so your back onto the throttle again.
otherwise set it for high boost that you don't hit while at cruise. unfortunately it means you miss out on economy improvements.

i would imagine the pressure switch would be ok if you use multiple switch's, solenoids and jets. as boost rises another jet is turned on.
cost wise controller may be cheaper.
you could do small jet after turbo turning on at low boost then at max boost a pre turbo jet turns on.

the catch is running even a small D01 jet almost all the time is going to go through the water/meth rather quickly (eg ~4-5 litres an hour).

[BioRunner]

Thank you for the info tweak'e, helped a lot with my decision. I went with the stage 2 diesel kit. I think the controller is the best setup, it conserves fluid and does not make the pump run 100% power all the time. Seems fluid and the pump will last longer.

I'm starting to get everything installed and wondered where you guys think I should mount the post turbo nozzle. I would think that mounting it where I specified in the post above would be best... closest to the intake on the engine, by the throttle plate..... But it would be real easy to drill the coupler like dvldoc said.... the only thing I worry about is that if I do it on the coupler the water/alcohol and air would need to travel over the engine and would reheat back up.... seems more efficient to tap right close to the throttle plate there... what do ya think?? Or would cooling the air that close to the turbo mean that by the time it made it to the other side of the engine there would be much more cooler denser air to go into the engine..?.. where as having the nozzle spraying right at the throttle would not cool enough air before it gets sucked into the engine..?..

I'm not knowledgeable with this stuff at all, just thoughts... I would love to be corrected.

Thanks all!

[Dust]

I have been told that 6 inches is the best way to go. I would probably spray before the crossover, especially if you are a diesel. You will probably be in boost quite alot, and the WI will suck the heat out of the metal, and you can get some intercooling after the WI stops.

More room to mix, more cool metal, sounds good to me. Anyone else can feel free to shoot the idea down.

[BioRunner]

Yeah Dust that makes good sense. If dvldoc is telling truth (which I'm sure he is) my intake should be cool to the touch.... so mounting this nozzle on the coupler would in turn also cool that intake piece that crosses the engine. And yes this 1KZ is almost always on boost.... so there's gonna be lots of spraying going on so heat absorption would probably not be much... I got my self another aluminum crossover intake piece anyway... so I may test both methods and see how it works out... I will start by drilling out the coupler tomorrow and get the system functioning. Then later down the road I will tap it closer to the throttle and see how it does...

Thanks for the input and anyone please correct us.

Oh also for the acohol and water... can I use 99% rubbing alcohol or other recomendations? and do I use distilled water only, not tap water?

Thanks all!

[dvldoc]

Yes you can use rubbing alcohol but it needs to be be in a mixture of no more than 50%. Due to the nickel plating of our fittings distilled water is really not needed. Since my vehicles had a 3 gallon or more tank i just fill with the garden hose because I'm lazy when I'm in Guam. Just clean your nozzle filter every 6 months or so and you should be fine. I run a little lime away about 1 time a year through the whole system and then flush it back out with water (nozzle disconnected of course) You can clean the filter with the same stuff.

[tweak'e]

in theroy closer to the turbo will be better. gives it more time for heat transfer to happen. methanol will evaporate stright away but water will take a while to heat up. don't forget the air flows through the intake at a very high speed.

mines still on the drawing board so i will be eger to here how much water you go through.

for the water it wouldn't be hard to fit very fine filter before the pump (ie 1-10 micron) that way the filter at the nozzle will never get blocked up unless the pump breaks.

[BioRunner]

Sweet! Thank you for the tips and info! There is a lot of tweaking I wanna do, but first I'm going to just get this bad boy running. Also I want to get some Dyno testing done just to see what a difference it makes and to let everyone see.... Inform people... thats why I love the internet, all the information... I just take take info... gotta add some info every once and a while as well, ya know... I will do a dry run, then a water run, and then a water/alcohol run. I also have a 1KZ-TE with a manual tranny so I will hopefully get better graph ranges... I may even try to get a smog guy to do a tail pipe test result to see what it shows.... and might Dyno a dry run after using the water/alcohol for a few months.... see if the dry run is better because of the steam clean effect...

Right now I tapped my washer fluid reservoir. I mounted the pump on the passenger side in the engine compartment. It's closets to the turbo, so I can do easy runs to the nozzles and real close to the reservoir. I have room above the pump on the wheel well where I can probably mount another reservoir that can feed into my washer reservoir.

I will keep ya posted and I will take some pics tomorrow...

Thanks again all!