[SickRick]

Looking for the correct "Devils Own" system for the following configuration:

05 Chevy Corvette
6L LS2 Motor - stock bottom end
AFR 225/70cc Heads
224/232 .581/.595 115 LSA Cam
Magnuson Supercharger 122ci - 14lbs boost
Supermaxx 1 7/8 headers - no cats
Crane Hi-Perf Lifters - 7:1 Gold Race Roller Rockers

Currently running a 3.4 pulley with 10lbs boost @ 3800 RPM. Looking to go to a 3.2 pulley for around 13-14lbs boost.

What would be the correct configuration (pump, sing/dual injectors, etc.) for a 50/50 alcohol setup?

Thanks...

Rick

[dvldoc]

We have done plenty of LS2 GTO's, you can find users all over www.ls1gto.com But running 14psi with a maggie and the kit will be closer to 15psi because the extra boost the added seal of the spray gives you from the rotors. I would recommend or LS1/LS2 kit with a 2 bar standalone map sensor for the controller to read and the dual nozzle upgrade since your running more than 12psi of boost. Standard M14 plus a M2 for that extra punch.

Maggies have higher outlet temps then say a procharger therefore need a bit more to keep things cool.

Hopes that helps you out. Any other questions feel free to PM me.

[ang534]

Hello all this is my first post.
I have a 2006 c6 procharged d1sc 3.9" pulley 14#'s (boost @ 6200 rpm) with kooks 1 7/8 headers and exhaust, qtp electronic waste gate, a vortech mondo bypass valve, and methanol injection.
I have run my methanol injection with dual nozzles - 1st one is a 1gph nozzle right before blower, and second one is a 10 gph right before the throttlebody. I set it up to start at 2.5 #'s boost and go full 150psi at 7 #'s boost running 50-50 mix. According to the nozzle calculator I need more flow - I was wondering if anyone knows if can I go bigger before the blower. Since I put that nozzle in I noticed car runs stronger in warm weather it really helps untill 85 degrees. I am worried about 2 things wityh bigger nozzle blower blades and maf sensor if i went to 3 gph nozzle would it hurt either? Looking forward to some educated opinions!

[ang534]

Hello all this is my first post.
I have a 2006 c6 procharged d1sc 3.9" pulley 14#'s (boost @ 6200 rpm) with kooks 1 7/8 headers and exhaust, qtp electronic waste gate, a vortech mondo bypass valve, and methanol injection.
I have run my methanol injection with dual nozzles - 1st one is a 1gph nozzle right before blower, and second one is a 10 gph right before the throttlebody. I set it up to start at 2.5 #'s boost and go full 150psi at 7 #'s boost running 50-50 mix. According to the nozzle calculator I need more flow - I was wondering if anyone knows if can I go bigger before the blower. Since I put that nozzle in I noticed car runs stronger in warm weather it really helps untill 85 degrees. I am worried about 2 things wityh bigger nozzle blower blades and maf sensor if i went to 3 gph nozzle would it hurt either? Looking forward to some educated opinions!

[dvldoc]

You should really be at around 14gph with 14psi on your set up, Unless you have some ungodly large injectors on your system. Then again every vehicle is different, If your not getting any knock with your setup then there is no need to go bigger especially if your around 11:5 AF ratio. The LS series engines really like 100% methanol for the biggest gains in power.

[ang534]

How are the nozzles rated @ 100 psi or 150 psi - I thought @ 100 psi so if that is correct I should be closer because @ 7#'s boost I am @ 150psi and that would put me closer to 14 gph. I would though like to put a slightly larger nozzle (2-3 gph) ahead of the Supercharger for the dual benefit of cooler charge coming out of supercharger and IAT sensor reading colder air (giving me more timing). What I am concerned about is the supercharger impeller (getting beat up by the fluid) & the MAF (getting fouled up by too much moisture in air). Car seems to run great up to 85 degree's F ambiant temp above that I think the IAT is dialing back timing. I do agree that 100% methanol would be great but I am concerned about the flamability of running 100% methanol (invisible flame and all) so I made the decision to run 50/50. Can anyone help with this?

[dvldoc]

Here is how the nozzle actually work.

M2 230psi
M3 225psi
M4 215psi
M5 190psi
M7 180psi
M10 170psi
M12 Not tested (didnt have one handy here on Guam)
M14 155 psi

Also remember the higher the voltage the pumps are run the more power they make, Most cars do not make 12v when the engine is running it's more like 13.65 or higher. Voltage and nozzle size trump the pressure switch it really cannot keep up. It does still cylcle but at a higher pressure.

Flow does not work like people think, It does not double just because the psi doubles. Years ago I thought the same way until finding out from the makers that is not the case.

This is closer to what the nozzle put out, But it depends on voltage output of your vehicle this is at 13.8 volts on our pumps, The pressure switch is not the pumps total output, it cannot keep up with the hose size and nozzle, Remember these are test for 3/8th hose from the factory.

M2 230psi = 2.9GPH
M3 225psi = 4.2GPH
M4 215psi = 5.5GPH
M5 190psi = 6.7GPH
M7 180psi = 9.0GPH
M10 170psi = 12.5GPH

20psi increase above 200psi on a 2GPH nozzle is around .1GPH increase in flow. at 200psi it is 2.7gph at 240psi it is at 3.0gph, 300psi it will flow 3.3gph. Many assume if you douple the pressure you double the flow but it's not correct.

You do not want to run more than a M1 nozzle before the blower anymore than that then you run the risk of damage to the MAF sensor a M1's flow will pretty much be heat flashed over to vapor by the time it exits the SC inlet. We use D01 and D02 nozzle pre-turbo all the time with zero ill effects to the impeller due to there high psi and super high atomization. What you do not want is extra fluid left over to ruin the MAF which will screw up your fueling and cause some major issues.

[ang534]

Thank you that helps a ton! So just to some up, I am only slightly low on amount being injected as I have the 1 gph (actually flowwing about 1.2 @ 150 psi) pre blower and the 10 gph (actually flowing 12 gph) so total is about 13.2 @ 150 psi. When I go to calculator I put in 6.0 liter, 14#'s boost, and 6500 max RPM. It tells me I should be flowing 17 gph, but 14 is probably all I need. The bottom end is stock, car is very low mileage (just turned 10K) don't want to blow it up for miscalculating methanol injection. Car has only 44lb. injectors (rely on methanol injection to make up the difference) when dyno - tuned all was well with afr 11.7 ish (this was with 10gph nozzle only) however car only made 12 #'s boost (made 623 rwhp @ 6100 on 75 degree day). Making more since switching to mondo valve (must seal better?) but added the preblower 1gph nozzle. Methanol injection some amzing stuff. Basically allows me to run 14#'s boost with 10.9 compression and smallish injectors on a cast piston motor using 93 oct. gas! Can't really afford to re-dyno right now so want to do a best guess set-up for most hp with as little risk as possible. I know that adding over 300 rwhp to a stock block (I would guess car making 640 rwhp now - only made about 335 rwhp stock) is on the edge to say the least, but don't want to find that a simple miscalculation (methanol) by me cost the shortblock. So to run more methanol would you add another nozzle ( bring total up to 3) or drill the one I have out just a touch? Or just leave it as is, having what feels like full power up to an 85 degree day is something I can live with. Just one more question how much do you think that 1 gph nozzle is lowering my IAT? Well thanks for all your help!

[dvldoc]

Your probably seeing at least a 20 to 30 degree drop over ambient air temps at the blowers inlet. But a IAT probe would confirm this.