[fst100]

I have a DHP PowrTuner. I don’t know if either steve or chance has one or a tuner, such as HP Tuners, but what do u guys have as your commanded AFR within the PCM? Those who are supercharged has told me in the past to shoot for a 10.5 actual on the WB. I have had the commanded AFR currently at 12.6 but that number could be causing my tune to be off at wide open throttle(WOT). Any tips and suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

[fst100]

dvldoc, do u run a WB at all when u ran the grand prix with alcohol? im just trying to get a baseline number to shoot for when im in power enrichment(PE) mode. part throttle from 40-70% the WB will read ~10.5-10.7 with no knock with the 3.3" pulley and 21-22* of timing. now if i increase it to 90-100%, the WB will go "RCH" or rich and i'd get anywhere from 1-3* of knock retard. my controller is setup up like so, turn on at ~2.25PSI and the max PSI is set at ~14PSI. what would u suggest? again im running (1) M2 nozzle at the tb spacer location. done with 89octane and the -20*F typical washer fluid. thanks in advance!!!!!

[GNVYUS 1]

Why are you running 89 octane on a FI car when for 10 cents more a gallon you can get 92 or 93 and reduce the chance of headgasket blowing, bearing spinning knock?

Only one M2 nozzle? That's not doing much to 14psi of compressed air.
Hell I have an M2 spraying at my comp wheel and a M15 of straight Meth after the turbo which goes through an FMIC.

I went from 11.4 to 11.8 on my Turbo Talon and gained 9awhp almost throughout the power band. Running rich only helps suppress knock in an octane deficient engine. I'd rather run at 11.5 and have to trim out a pound of boost then run a pound more and flood it out. Ever smell your oil at a bunch of 10:1 AFR runs, not good and worse for older engines with leak down issues. I tuned my buddy's Talon from his 9.6 to my 11.6 on a dyno day and the car made a TON more power but started to knock due to the leaner mixture not suppressing the knock. Turned it down a psi and made more power on less psi due to a better AF/R.

Run 93 octane and 11.5 AF/R for a powerful yet safe tune. If possible run as much alcohol/water as possible to cool down the inlet and you're headgaskets will thank you.

[fst100]

maybe i'm lucky nothing broke yet as i've been driving he car on 89oct since early of this year with a few track passes and spirited runs. a few members off a forum i go to has theirs tuned for 87octane and they are still running better times. there is a difference b/t a turbo and super in that turbos runs better with a meth/alcohol injection setup over a supercharged application using a roots-type like the eaton M90. i tried running 11.3-11.6 even w/o alcohol and was having a tough time trying to add timing over boost with whatever size pulley i have. of course im only using the typical -20*F washer fluid, thats what i run on a daily basis, so thats what would run on at the track. right now im still tuning, of course, but since im going to a smaller pulley, i am currently using 92+octane to lower the combustion temps and its been alright thus far but i need to get a newer WB sensor as mine's not reading accurate.

[GNVYUS 1]

You have cylinder pressure ( static compression, boost and timing ) then add in the inlet temp which can promote early combustion ( detonation ). Think of the octane as your way of taming the timing and the water/meth to cool the boost temps so it'll be like running regular ambient air temps in the cylinders.

Tuning for ZERO knock is vital on any FI vehicle. Keep running 92 octane and tune around a 11.5 AF/R and then use your knock readings as a way to see how your cylinder pressure is responding to your current setup. If you keep your octane and AF/R always similar it will be easier to see what boost and timing work in that scenario. Usually you can keep adding Meth and it will allow you to run more boost on the same octane and AF/R. When you can't run anymore Meth in it and it starts to knock you hit your limit for your setup and cylinder pressure. You're also on the very edge of the tune and should back off at least 1psi while making sure the Meth bottle is also got the Cool Aid in it.

[forcefed86]

I agree with everything above to a point. But there is no magic AFR number. Every engine is different don't care if they are both L67's or LS1's. Only way to find the best AFR is to put the car on a dyno. It will let you know what mixture it likes. I'd start in teh low 11's and work my way up. My old eclipse liked 12.2:1. Another note is when leaning out a motor it's always good to have an EGT guage. Lots of guys I know that run there race cars on the ragged edge run just under 1700*. I don't like to see over 1550* myself, I tune conservatively.

Hey Rocket468! Sounds like a neat trick with the dynamat. I rev my 2jz pretty high and knock sensor reading go a little crazy around shift points. What type of dynamat are you using? Just the standard cheapo stuff like this?

http://www.etronics.com/p-8937-dynam...ame=GoogleBase


Are you just wraping the bellhousing? Or the whole top of the trans? Or possible just trans tunnel? Did you consider that this might have an insulating effect and trap alot of heat in the trans?