[fst100]

hey its been a while since i stopped over here and checked whats new. currently i have a 98 GTP and its modded with basically evey bolt-on. heres my list:
3.2" pulley
4" FWI
AL104@0.045
DHP PCM with custom tune-lowered Torque Management
Ported Exhaust Manifolds
3"DP->2.5" Hi-FLo Cat and straight pipe->stock "Y" split and mufflers
LS1M/AFC 2.2
2 types of Timing adjustments-1st one from 35%-50% at 12* and >50% at 21*
Non-porgressive alcohol injection M15 nozzle at 4.5-5# of boost/at 7.5Hz on the MAFF Sensor
i dont know what my alcohol pressure is set at

now my question is it possible to spray too much when im at WOT to cause the car to show up as knock and pull timing? im only using a narrowband. on a non-alkyed car, O2s are recommended to be in the 935-945s however on my scans attached i have 2 types where one is ~925-935 with barely no blips of KR and a scan where my O2s are ~940-950 with a bunch of knock.
No Knock:
No Knock 01.27.2007_21.36.29). from fst100 -- Scan Depot dot net

Knock
Knock (01.27.2007_23.39.07).CS from fst100 -- Scan Depot dot net

let me know please. thanks in advance

[dvldoc]

Yes to much causes knock, especially on a GTP. I can tell you your problem right now, M15 is WAY WAY to big for your mods. You need a M7 nozzle in a hurry.

[fst100]

i currently have a m5 IIRC but could i get an m10 instead?

[Rocket468]

I would go with a m5...

[fst100]

will i've been running the m15 since i had a 3.4" pulley. i only get burst KR and shift KR at WOT. if the m15 nozzle is whats causing the burst/shift KR then i'll lower the nozzle back to a m5 or a bit larger like an m7, but i dont see how it could? what are some reasons for the larger nozzle to be to much though out of curiosity-aside from hydrolock? thanks in advance
fst100

[first/thridgen]

I can only guess at why but I have seen this without a/w injection.


With my 12.5 af table that was verifed with my wide band and 87 octane in a motor that was 9.3 to 1 static compresion, I had counts and enough for the computer to pull timing.

I zeroed out the power enrichment and had no counts or retard 14.7 on 87.

I ran the test twice because I did not believe it.


One thing I noticed is that there was less power (i would guess at 15% loss of hp) without the enrichment.

Less power means less combustion pressure = less heat = less chance for a secound flame front to develope.

By the way that narrow band o2 is almost usless to tell af ratio - wide bands are a reasonable price now days - use lamba when using alchol gas mixture

[Rocket468]

After doing lots of testing, we have learned that grand prixs don't like this much alcohol going thur the eaton 90. The meth is going to puddle up and will also create issues with having to pull lots of fuel with a afc etc. Its honestly more than whats needed.

Alcohol injection is not one of them if alittle is good more is better. You realy have to have it sized right, especally when you have a static flow setup. We usually run 1 nozzle size smaller on the type you have. Or we just make sure the customers have it set to start injecting latter. 3/4 of max boost is usually a good place.

Now will this solve all of your kr problems. Thats questionable. 3800 can be tricky because the knock sensors are sensitive and lots of possable problems. I had to resort to dynomat on my tranny because i was getting kr from it. And i already had my knock sensor de-senstised and kr counts played with more than what a stock dhp was.

[fst100]

im back. im still running the m15 nozzle, but i cranked the pump pressure down quite a bit, delayed the activation of the alcohol when it hits a certain boost levelto about 4-5#. running 19* of timing and i barely get any burst or shift KR. for now that'll do, but im still unsatisfied

im gonna go and purchase your Progressive Controller since im constantly on part throttle whenever i drive as well as being able to adjust the level of alcohol from low boost to higher/full boost. about darn time right? lol

i d/l the instructions and reading it over to get a feel and preparation, but on my GTP's map sensor, what color wire should i tap into from the controller's green wiring harness? also since im going to switch over to the Progressive Controller, i dont need the boost activated sensor/the relay anymore correct?
i could use the connections from the relay and use it on the Progressive Controller-see attachments for my current alcohol electrical setup.

i also purchased a pressure gauge(oil pressure gauge) that will tie into the alcohol line when it gets activated thus giving me an estimate of PSI. a few GTP users recommended to start at 70-80PSI. is that correct?

thanks for help answering these questions and concerns.

[Rocket468]

Its the green wire. Its right smack dab behind the m90.

Your oill pressure gauge will quickly fail. The system going to pressure rise up to 150psi. So you would need an oil gauge capable of at least 200psi.

Your going to want your alcohol with a controller to come on around 2-3psi.

[Dust]

You were running an M15 straight? Wow, bet there was some quench going on there.