[JettaRed]

I just checked the Bentley manual and other causes of misfires can be faulty fuel injectors (unlikely) or lack of fuel. I'm guessing you have fuel in your tank, but have you checked the fuses for the fuel pump and injectors?

[JettaRed]

How did you splice your wire into the MAP sensor? If possible, remove the wire from the controller. Just in case there is something wrong with the controller. Though you would normally get a DTC if things were wacky with the MAP, I once did the diode mod and know that if you mess things up, the car will run like crap. But I have only 1.8Ts; the 2.7T may run like crap but not throw a code if the MAP signal is flaky.

[thepaintballguy]

OK so just to make it easier on everyone here is a list of everything I have tried with the outcome of each test:

1. Checked W/M check valve - clean, still having misfire problems.
2. Completely disconnected the W/M kit - still having misfire problems.
3. Switched Coilpacks around - still have misfire problems on same cylinders. Did not follow coilpacks.
4. Pulled and tested the ICM's - both are good (according to the test) and still have misfire problems.
5. Swapped ICM's - still misfiring on same cylinders
6. Swapped spark plugs around to see if misfires follow them - no go, misfires still on same cylinders as before.
7. Replaced all the spark plugs with new ones - still having misfires on same cylinders
8. Pressure test - could not find anything leaking. Still having misfires.
9. Visually inspected all all the vac lines - could not find anything. Still misfires.

I am pretty sure thats it.

Here is my list of what I am going to try again today when I get off work:

1. Disconnect the wire from the MAP sensor that goes to the W/M kit and see what happens.
2. Compression Test (If this fails I will be ROYALLY PISSED!!!!!)
3. Spray down the engine with soapy water and re-try the pressure test.
4. Check all fuses that have to do with fueling... I will probably check them all anyways.
5. Throw a freaking wrench.
6. Have it towed to a buddies shop and see if a fresh set of eyes can find anything.

If anyone has any other ideas of stuff for me to try please please please LMK. I am getting desperate.

Josh

[thepaintballguy]

Just got my car towed back to my house from Chris's shop. The diagnoses is not good. We tested the ignition system and everything is good there. We then decided to do the compression test. This did not turn out so well. 3 of the 6 cylinders are running 175 for compression. 2 of them were around 155-160 and then cylinder number 3 (the one that was having the most misfires) had a big fat 0. Thats right, a 0. We looked into it further and concluded that I indeed have a blown head gasket and also have fried the piston rings. Woopty Freaken Do.

SO now I get to rebuild it.

What do you think? Should I leave the engine in the car to do it or pull it out?

And I have been talking to a few people who think it was the w/m kit that did it. They think that it killed it when it injected the meth to early when I was dialing it in. What do you think? I had a misfire on my first run with it for about 1 sec or so then I let off the gas. After that I turned the injection point up and it ran perfect for about 45 min then it all went down hill.

I never tuned the car (ie, increased timing) or anything like that.

Josh

[dvldoc]

Many things can lead to a blown head gasket but water injection coming on a few PSI to early is not going to be one of them unless the extra boost leads to a already weak stock headgasket blowing.

And it appears from what I have found The Audi and VW have a weak stock headgasket prone to Premature Head Gasket Failure. If your going to replace it I would go with a Felpro set. Engine out is always easier than trying to do this stuff with it in. If it was just the headgasket I would leave it in. Your misfires were probably coming from coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. You really won't know if the piston rings are bad until the heads are off.

[thepaintballguy]

Ok, Here are some logs I took. I am wondering if the controller for the W/M kit was bad. Look at how low the RPMs are when the IAT start to drop. I think the kit was injecting way before I built boost up. Possibly it was injecting as soon as I went to WOT?



Any input?

josh

[JettaRed]

Originally Posted by thepaintballguy

Ok, Here are some logs I took. I am wondering if the controller for the W/M kit was bad. Look at how low the RPMs are when the IAT start to drop. I think the kit was injecting way before I built boost up. Possibly it was injecting as soon as I went to WOT?

How were you setting the water on-set? By the markings on the controller or a boost gauge? In either case, water too early may cause misfires (not pinging or knocking) and bogging down due to the water extinguishing the flame, but it's not going to blow the head gasket. Also, I would expect the water to come on at WOT. Is the signal wire on the MAP the same as with 1.8Ts? Purple/gray? Or a different color?

[thepaintballguy]

I had it set by the boost gauge. The controller seemed to be WAY off (set it at 6PSI on the controller it came on around 1 PSI on the boost gauge) so I set it for the boost gauge. I didn't think it could cause it to blow but I am just trying to think out loud. I am really not suspecting the W/M kit. If anything the W/M kit would have helped prevent this by lowering the intake temps so they were not so hot. Heat is what caused the head gasket to go. Another idea that I and another guy I was talking to came up with is the possibility that in between gears the engine was cutting fuel and then the w/m kit was still injecting (I have an automatic so I dont let off the gas to shift) thus injecting just the meth into the engine causing it to run really lean. Could that be a possibility?

Josh

[thepaintballguy]

Here is something else.
I had been getting a little bit of white smoke for a while (about 2 weeks or so) before this all happened. I am wondering if this was something that happened before and then it just so happened to go out because of the extra boost and whatnot...
blown head gasket would mean white smoke right? coolant leaking into the combustion chamber? There was not that much smoke though. Only on startup and for about 10 min after that. Maybe it was only a small leak at first so it was just seeping into the chambers overnight or when the engine was cold and once the engine heated up it sealed it enough for there not to be enough leaking to cause noticeable white smoke? Just thinking out loud right now.

Josh

[JettaRed]

To answer your question about going lean between shifts, I doubt that to be the case. If anything, the w/m would keep it richer than nothing at all. In other words, better than without w/m at all. I believe the DV dumps boost between shifts.

The white smoke at startup could be either water or oil, but because it lasted 10 minutes or so, it may be more likely water from the leaky head gasket. As you suspected on another forum, once the car warmed up and the head expanded against the block, the leak was sealed. However, something ended up blowing eventually.