[FYX193]

Bad news guys... I am still having problems with your controller. I finally got around to Re-Installing the new controller. I am using all new wires and I purchased the appropriate GM 3 bar MAP sensor. Your controller is supplying the GM 3 bar sensor with the +5v power source. The controller and the map sensor are sharing a ground wire source.

Prior to re-installing this controller I was using my Zeitronix trigger box to control the w/i pump & solenoid via a relay. This was working perfectly fine, so I know the pump and solenoid works, and that the wiring through the firewall to the pump and solenoid are fine as well. In order to re-install the Devils Own 3 bar controller, I simply cut the Solenoid/Pump's + wire on the relay setup and reconnected the Solenoid/Pump's + wire to the blue wire on the Devils Own controller.

To test the Devils Own controller, I set the Start at 2psi and the Full at 5psi. I then did several low boost runs to try to activate the system. The controller's Red LED is on and will dim while the system activates. The Green LED will also light up and progressively get brighter until the Yellow LED lights up. This tells me that it must be working, however, my pressure gauge does not show any pressure change at all. I know the w/i line is primed, because I was using the alternative setup with my Zeitronix & relay to power the w/i system just the previous day and there is still pressure in the lines (~20psi). The system was also showing fluctuations in pressure between 90-150psi while using the Zeitronix & Relay setup.

I am very frustrated with this controller it is so irritating to know that I installed a friends Devils Own controller and he has zero problems, and then mine has nothing but problems even when I hook it up by the book using the correct 3 bar MAP sensor.

Here is a list of parts used in my particular W/I system:
GM 3 Bar MAP Sensor
Devils Own 3 Bar Controller
Devils Own 150psi Pump
~25ft Devils Own Hose
Devils Own Quick Connect Fittings
x1 Cooling Mist Solenoid
x2 Cooling Mist Outside Mount M5 Nozzles w/Quick Connect Fittings
Aquamist DDSv3 Failsafe System (Not installed, but will be soon.)

I prefer not to use a check valve and this is why I am using a solenoid.

[dvldoc]

The controller sounds like it's working like it should with the lights, Have you checked the Cooling Mist Solenoid to make sure it's opening? Or tried the system without it in line?

One way to test is to touch the grey wire to the green wire on the controller and see if it get flow. Solenoids can be prone to failure due to corrosion if they are methanol resistant.

You also need to check the system with the solenoid not hooked up.

[FYX193]

No it is not the solenoid, the solenoid works fine.

But just to double check, I cut the + lead from the solenoid and unhooked the hose from the solenoid and ran it so that the hose stuck out of the front of the hood while I drove down the road to do some low boost runs. The pump did not spray at all. The hose was venting to atmosphere with nothing on the end of it, and nothing happened.

[Rocket468]

Can You take some pictures of your setup and email them to me and Chance@alcohol-injection.com

Not sure why your having troubles, might help us out. The controller was checked out before being shipped to you. From your description the lights are worken properly. Do you have a volt meter? you should see 12v on the blue wire from the controller when its active.

Where are you getting power from for the controller? Very that its 12v.

When you apply 12v + and - to the pump does it work?

[FYX193]

I finally found time to test the blue wire. I had my multimeter hooked up to the blue wire and ground. The blue wire was not hooked up to anything but the multimeter and the wire is only about 3ft in length.

The multimeter read +7.7v to 7.8v no matter what I set the "Start" and "FULL" settings to. For the majority of the test I had the START set to 2-5psi and the FULL set to 15-25psi.

During the test the LEDs worked as they should, RED on constantly... Green would start at Dim and then get Brighter... Yellow would come on and Stay solid until I dropped out of boost.

To double check my Ignition source I took the case off the controller, and hooked the multimeter to the pink wire and it read +12.2v while the ignition was on/car was off.

The controller is still not powering the pump.

[dvldoc]

The voltage of the blue wire will not change unless you have voltage going to the green,

Have you tested the pump independently to verify it will spray on it's own with direct 12v power.

[FYX193]

Yeah, the pump works fine when hooked up to a direct +12v source.

[FYX193]

When I was testing the blue wire to verify its voltage, I had a friend sitting in the passenger seat with the volt meter to measure the blue wire while I was boosting the car up to 24psi. When ever the Green and then the Yellow LEDs would light up, the blue wire read 7.7v or 7.8v but was consistantly at that voltage when the system was active. The blue wire read 0v when the Green and Yellow LEDs were off.

[dvldoc]

7.8v is not enough to spin the pump that's for sure, The last thing I would try is a different power source for the pump, Something of a much heavier guage and verify it's 12 volts. We don't really see power issues on SRT-4 with having a voltage drop. A relay would probably clear up the whole issue.

[FYX193]

I will try hooking up a relay tomorrow, to ensure the +12v power source is provided direct from the car's battery. What fuse should I use inline to protect the controller? A 15amp or 30 amp?