[LGG]

Well,

I've had alot of things going on the past month and haven't really had time to tackle this install, but I used the last few days to get it done.

It is a very nice kit no doubt about it, but I had to do alot of work to it to get it to go on my car.

Here's what I did before installing:
- The check valve had broken off flush in the spacer during shipping. I had to dig out the plastic with plyers and re-tap the hole.
- I didn't have a FWI up until now so I used this opportunity to build one
- bored out the spacer to 72mm to match up to my ZZP stage 2 TB
- took off the TB and used the gasket maker while it was off the car to ensure none squeezed into the TB to block airflow
- I assembled the spacer, nozzle, TB, check valve, and stainless intake hose off the car. I found it much easier.
- Didn't have it all together for more than 10 minutes when my 2nd check valve broken again. Luckily I learned from last time and had it in the 90 elbow instead of directly in the spacer. I chucked the 90 and assembled without the check valve.
- had to drill out a hole in the spacer for the vacuum port on the bottom left of the s/c because there was no hole in the spacer for it
- flush mounted the nozzle as per the instructions here
- ran all 4 wires through the firewall. Did slopoke's power wire install and grounded the black wire to the car frame.
- Instead of using the wire adapters that came with the kit, I carefully cut back the sheathing on the wires for the MAP sensor and the pink power wire and soldered and taped the seams over. I found the MAP connectors ok, but very loose and would easily fall out.

Did all the looming and connected the controller and it started up first time, no codes, no blinking lights on the controller (yet).

This is in no way bashing the kit, just letting others know of the challenges that they may face and how I solved them. I wonder if that wire connector to the MAP sensor is why alot of people had problems with their controllers?


I have a 3.2 pulley and need to get a smaller belt to run it and start tuning this kit.

Questions I have are:

- What could happen if I run it without a check valve? What does it do?
- Are there any other more durable alternatives to the check valve?
- How do I know it's working? The power light is on on the controller, and I drove around and hit the boost a few times, but didn't see any change on the controller, and didn't hear anything (like the pump running)

TIA

[shaferz]

You wont be able to hear the pump running while you're driving. I cant hear mine at least.

You have to have some way to scan the engine to see if your KR is dropping.

[dvldoc]

I killed the use of the screw in check valve just because of that reason, If it were brass it would be great, Overtighting it will cause it to snap just like any non metal threaded item.

If your using the TB spacer you have to have a check valve or the car will pull in fluid from the pump. If the nozzle is after the throttle body blade you don't need one.

It is true, about the stock MAP connectors they are junk. It normally will break the first time you try to remove it if your not carefull making a loose connection and were the connector can vibrate out. I had to finally replace the harness on my wifes care because it would work itself completly loose.

Did you prime the pump up before you took the car out for a ride? It takes a bit for fluid to get all the way through the system if you try to do it with it attached to the nozzle.

Just diconnect the hose from the nozzle assembly, unplug the controller and connect the pump to the battery and let it prime up. IT will take forever if it's connected to the nozzle.

After you prime the system, go for a drive put the start point on 4psi and full at 10psi and watch the LED's green should get brighter then come on solid then the yellow will come on solid and All 3 leds will be lit at full psi.

Check your MAP signal at idle with a volt meter. it should be around 2.5 volts You can do this with the Green wire on the controller.

You got your kit several months back. Many improvements have been made to make it perfect.

The SRT-4 guys will tell you it's the best kit for the money period.

[LGG]

Thanks dvldoc,

Like I said all in all a great kit for the money. Totally understand that there has been revisions. I would expect no less. Just passing on info.

your using the TB spacer you have to have a check valve or the car will pull in fluid from the pump. If the nozzle is after the throttle body blade you don't need one.

Perfect. I figured I wouldn't need it. I have the spacer with the nozzle installed after the throttle body so I sould be ok right?

Well, I didn't prime it exactly. I kinda forgot that. What it did was run the car in accessory for a bit and then just started it and let it idle for a bit.

Just leaving it idling will prime it correct? I'm tied into one of the pink wires from the fuse box so wouldn't you be priming the car with the key just turned to accessory like I was doing?

And just an update, I'm sure it's working now cause my car is misfiring like mad. It sounds like I'm running an XPZ cam in there or something. It sounds so good, I may just keep it like this

but seriously, time to drop to 104's and gap at .35 right?

[LGG]

TTT

just want to make sure that :

1. running without a check valve is ok because this is behind the trottle body
2. my misfires mean I need to gap my plugs around .35

thanks

[shaferz]

No. You need the check valve regardless from what I remember.

Also... your car should have no misfires if you are idling with the kit.

[LGG]

Originally Posted by shaferz @ Sun Jun 19, 2005 6:50 am

No. You need the check valve regardless from what I remember.

Also... your car should have no misfires if you are idling with the kit.

Yeah, I realize that now. It sucked 2L of washer fluid through the engine in 10 min . I shut it off for now. I have been reading around and some people using an alcohol kit are using this a minature solenoid instead of a check valve. I think I'm going to try that. Anybody use these before

part # 7877K25 from www.mcmaster.com