[Tweaky]

I am having an issue with my just-installed kit. I wired everything up according to the instructions (two diff writeups because I had questions). Now I am getting an SES code P0108 (MAP Circuit High Input). It comes back within a few minutes of resetting via LS1m. I have also gotten a couple TPS problem codes (P0121 i think). Those are less frequent.

I am also getting screwy reading from my LS1m for boost. It reads 14.35psi at idle, and when I rev it. Also the DIC boost "gauge" was reading fully lit for a while, but that stopped.

As a possible solution, I was unsure the connectors supplied were making good connections, so I replaced the ones on the green wiring with some leftover splices from my service days...stuff we used on helicopters. I know they are tight now, so this isnt the problem.

Also rewired my MAP connector, as it seemed a bit loose, and I was thinking that may have been the issue. So this one is eliminated.

My controller power light is solid red, except for a few seconds I noticed it flickering...but that stopped quickly. Pump light almost tried to come on at the same time the power light was flickering. Full light never even tried.

Blue wire is connected to white of pump. Red is connected to switched power source (sunroof fuse, as I have no power drop and no sunroof). Black is connected to a known good ground (same one I use for my A-pillar gauge lights). Grey is left hanging, with no bare wire to connect to anything at random. Green is spliced into the green wire from my MAP connector using above mentioned splices.

Here is the kicker...I decided to unplug the controller from the harness. No more codes, and boost readings are normal. I am thinking now that the harness I got may have been wired wrong. It goes Grey, Green, Black, Blue, Red. Not sure how, but I think the controller/harness is sending full voltage to the MAP sensor, rather than reading voltage from it. And I am thinking that all this is also why I am not getting any water coming out of the hose when I try to test for leaks....no power to pump due to faulty signals.

Help!! If any more info is needed, let me know what to check. If I am being a dork and missing something obvious, yell at me. Whatever, just help me get this working...need to have it up and running so I can tune it and move on to my N2O install.

One other issue...I seem to have broken a wire when pulling the hanger through the firewall grommet. I have no left fron turn signal now, but bulb and fuse are both good. I remember noticing something stuck to the tape on the hanger, but I did not look close enough to be sure....any advice on this would be cool too...like what wire it could be, so I can yank it out and splice it .

Thanks,
Alex

[slopoke]

Sorry to hear you are having issues.
Lets start with the firewall issue first. From inside the car when you are looking at the grommet you can pull out the horseshoe rubber seal out of that pass-through. Pull it out. Now you have just a fine rubber seal keeping the elements out of the cabin. crawl under there and look at the wire loom that goes through there (factory) look for any tears in the electrical tape wrap, this should get you started with the blinker issue. Next moving to the map and maf issues. Are you sure that you pluged your TPS and MAF sensors in correctly and in the correct plug? It is hard to get them wrong as they are keyed for the plug. Another thing did you possibly pull out any of the MAF wires out of the plugs while removing them? You mentioned helicopters so I assume you have a multi meter, from the in cabin controller start your car. jump off the green wire. What is your voltage? You should only see a scale of 2 to 5 volts. Sounds to me like you have a direct short on the maf wire. Easy way to check is Ohm out the green wire against the chasis of the car. I bet you that when you were feeding the wires through the firewall you chafed the wire and grounded it.
Try this and let me know what happens...
-Chris

[dvldoc]

The controllers are all bench tested by Ken before shiping. I would check your wiring you your car.

The wires go as follows on the controller harness
Grey
Green
Black
Blue
Red.

I would use a better power source for the controller. Like any of the pink wires in your relay box under the hood.

[slopoke]

Here is a write up from my install last night. Enjoy

[Tweaky]

Pulled the plug out of the grommet...bugger aint easy, let me tell you. Then cut and pulled the green wire back into the cabin...you were right, is stripped for about 8" worth, so had to be grounding out. Funny thing is that it was not showing up as grounded on my Fluke.

Then I had to go to work. Ran out of time because I was being a wuss and coming inside when the snow started falling heavy. So I will be rewiring the entire thing tomorrow, using some leftover wire I have that has a bit tougher shielding.

Didn't see the broken blinker wire, but did see a bunch of black tape screwed up. So it has to be in there somewhere. Tomorrow when I have more light, I will hunt for it. Thinking that may be due to when I shoved my boost gauge vac line through, as well as the hanger. Should be alot smoother with that plug out of the way...will be able to be less forceful and still get stuff thorugh. Thinking I may leave it out until I get all the wires, etc. through there that I will be wanting, then put it back in. But then it should be easier to get out now that the glue is busted.

Thanks for the help. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to post that my car is a drunk. And next week, it should be a happy drunk.

[slopoke]

Glad to hear that worked out for you. Yea, that plug is a PITA if you leave it in there.
Good luck finding the blinker short. Thats like finding a needle in a needle stack
Keep us posted....
-Chris

[Tweaky]

OK, I rewired the green, and made my own "power-drop" for the red wire. Tested all the circuits, nothing grounds out, all connections flow juice. My new power drop is a spade connector shoved into the sunroof fuse slot, works great thanks to the spade prongs being identical to the minifuse prongs.

But still have issue. Boost reading in LS1m is again 14.35psi. No other lights on controller light up. SES codes for MAP high input and TPS issue. Unplug just the power to the controller, and boost readings go normal, and no SES codes. Also, no power going to pump.

Any other suggestions?

On the blinker wire...think I got that licked, once I figure out how to reach my hands (with tools) in to where the grommet comes out in engine compartment. Can see 2 little white wire-ends sticking out...just have to be able to strip and crimp in that spot. And hope that they are the correct wires.

Quick question: On the MAP sensor, the green wire is the middle one correct? Labelled "B" on the connector? Just wondering if maybe my wiring might be colored differently than others, as the no-powerdrop thing leads me to believe that there are changes in at least some wiring...well, that and I have a different PCM and engine harness due to being a 97.

[dvldoc]

Do you have your MAP pluged back in the right way? Most cars break off the connector that locks it place due to dry rot.?


You've got something hooked up wrong, a bad connection with the blue wire to the pump will cause your MAP sensor to not read, infact your boost gauge won't even work. Check for a grouned wire.

You can check power to the pump by simply unhooking the blue wire and touching it to your relay box terminal. The pump should run. If not you do not have it grounded properly.

Use a good body ground for both the controller and the pump.

PM me some pics and I can help you out alot better. And list exactly what wire is going to what.

The only light that lights up when the controller is on is the red LED, the green LED will not come on untill your car reaches the set boost level, then it will become brighter than blink. Then the 3rd LED comes on solid or flickers a bit depending on how much boost you have it set at.

[slopoke]

I agree with Dvl, can you post some detailed pics of all your connectors you touched???

[Tweaky]

Will pull out the blue wire tonight to check it for stripping/grounding. Does not read as grounded with fluke, but then neither did the green wire. MAP plug is busted like many others, but the prongs are keyed, and it only goes in one way.

From the controller harness:
Blue connects to white of pump harness, no other splices.
Green connects to off-shelf wire using one of my splices, that wire connects to green of MAP plug, using another of my splices.
Grey is left hanging, no bare wire to short out.
Red is connected to sunroof fuse using spade connector. Reads at 13.8V.
Black is connected to ground, using splice into wire that also grounds my pillar pod gauge.

From pump:
Brown/black is connected to ground using spade connector clamped into engine side of dogbone mount, but may run wire all the way to the battery for better connection. Tests OK, but the current way was jsut for testing anyhow. Have plans to fab a ground-post near the relay box.
White is connected to blue of controller harness using supplied splice.

Tommorow, I am going to try wiring everything "outside." Meaning nothing through the firewall, all on top of the motor. Will also test the pump by connecting directly to power.

Will try to get pics, but I dropped my digicam the other day and it has been acting up.